Motorcycle Club » The Roadliner/Stratoliners Road

Transfer Case Oil Change

13 posts from 6 voices
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  1. Kos

    WOW, the owners manual is extremely vague about changing the oil in the transfer case. I changed my own engine oil on my 1300 and it is straight forward on the Roadie. It calls for it at the 600 mile check. Is this something that I want to deal with?

  2. wendure3

    Hi Kos
    This is copied from another post in this forum somewhere. I could not find it again. I am planning on using this homemade tool tonight to try to change mine without removing the exhaust.

    I will let you know how it goes

    Transfer case oil.

    I have the stock exhaust. I got a 1" x 6mm bolt that has a 10 mm head and a couple of jam nuts and made myself a little tool to pull out the fill cover. Worked slick and did not have to loosen up the exhaust at all. The drain and level hole I could get at with no problem. Filled with a short piece of fuel line from the container.

  3. floritapiger

    Take it to the dealer
    $20.00 and 20 min.
    florida biker

  4. Kos

    and that sounds perfect, $20 bucks and 20 minutes. I hope my dealer is that easy. Thanks

  5. vezdcta

    If you follow the factory recommended service procedure with stock exhaust, you need to move the exhaust out of the way to access the fill hole. I believe the details are in the service manual, but not the owner's manual. If you refill it through the inspection hole instead, you can perform the oil change without having to mess with the exhaust system.

    I did mine myself, but I wouldn't count on finding a dealer that will do this for 20.00 - somebody must have got a hell of a deal.

  6. Ledmvhirl

    Kos, there is a post here if you have not been able to get the information yet:

  7. wendure3

    I did mine last night. I started to follow the servcie manual and quickly gave up and went the way of the posts here. Draining with the lower plug and filling through the inspection hole. It was quick and easy with the stock exhaust on. The longest time was spent getting the oil back into the case through the inspection hole. A piece of tubing connected to the top of the oil bottle and it squeezed in fairly well. I used Suzuki oil that had a spout on the cap like a ketchup bottle that you could attach the tube to. Any squeeze bottle will work.

    If you can find a dealer that will do it for $20 bucks though I would go for it, but in the Memphis area they all want closer to $80 to do it.

  8. floritapiger

    champions yamaha leesburg fl.

  9. Ledmvhirl

    I took off the RdHse and rear exhst hdr, leaving the front exhst hdr on. It was not difficult. I did find that the copper exhst gasket was not sealing.

    I poured the drained oil in a empty water bottle and marked the level with a magic marker. Then poured it into a larger container. I filled the water bottle up to the mark with Royal Purple Gear Oil. Luckily the fill tub from the RP bottle fit the water bottle. With the bike on the kick stand, I was able to empty the water bottle into the side cover.

  10. vezdcta

    That would refill it to the previous level, all right - but what if the previous level was low? Did you remove the inspection plug to see if the oil was up to that level?

  11. Ledmvhirl

    Yes and good point! Removing the inspection bolt to ensure the Oil is at the proper level is like using the dip stick after an oil change.

    I went one step further to determine how much liquid was used. Filling the water bottle up to the line with liquid then pouring into a measuring cup indicated 9 fl oz(US) which converts to 0.561897 litre. The book calls for 0.55 litre.

  12. Kos

    Thanks Crew, this is all good info.

  13. czrMarg

    EXCELLENT WRITE UP..........

    tools required:
    6 pack of beer
    the end of a 10mm hex key cut to 1 inch long
    t-40 torq bit
    10mm wrench
    5mm hex key (i think this is the size)
    3/8th inch ID fuel hose

    start by removing the big silver fill plug shown here:

    use the 10mm wrench and 10mm piece of hex key

    next remove the drain shown here behind the exhaust and heat wrap:

    this is the t-40 torq bit...becareful not to lose the brass washer that seals the bolt. once this is removed drain well by holding the bike over on that side.

    while the gear lube is draining remove the level indicating bolt shown here:

    this is a normal size hex key... i think 5mm. if you have socket hex keys and long extension and ratchet makes this quick work.

    once its done draining put the bottom plug back in and put about a 1 foot piece of 3/8ths fuel hose on the end of your lube bottle and with the bike held level (preferably by a cute blonde) shown here:

    fill the t-case until lube comes out the level hole... the owners manual says this should take .58 qts but mine took more like .75 qts for whatever reason.

    put the fill plug and level plug back in and enjoy your ride.


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