Well you dont have to drop the lower pipe, but that dont mean there wont be cussing. As it stands, Im not as impressed with the ORKS as I think I should be.
Some of this is probably due to the fact that the previous owner honked a filter on there so tight it took 2 hours and a 24 inch pipe wrench to loosen the old filter. And when it did come out, it took the center stem with it. So I got a 16 inch breaker bar out of my 1/2 inch set and using the pipe wrenh in the other hand, I got the threaded stem free. I had to dismount the ORK from the frame to do this. Luckily all the threads were fine, nothing stripped or anything.
What prompted this was a leaky filter seal, so I opted to do a filter-only change for now and see if there are any more leaks so I can schedule them on a real oil change. I now think the old filter leaked because it was too tight.
I installed a NAPA 1215 and I have the proper socket for it, and I will stick with it. This other weirdo filter was not made for any socket I could find.
The other thing I noticed was the oil lines. Yes, we added convenience, but we also added oil lines. The OEM system did not have them. Ive seen enough tractor failures in my time to know these can fail. So I am going to have a spare set made from hydraulic components and keep them in the bag.
Im gonig to let it be for another oil change and see how it goes. Like I said I think the old filters installation was just too aggressive............
The OEM system might get put back on unless things go much better.
I hand tighten all my filters and they are still darn tight when I go to take them off. But I've watched guys in a dealership use a wrench to tighten filters on a V Star. Scary thought! The NAPA 1215 works great and the cap style filter wrench is perfect to get the old ones off. I agree on the oil lines and I had some made at the local hydraulic shop with crimped on high pressure fittings that are far less likely to leak than the original ones. I'll tell you what though...as many ORK's that are out there, I haven't personally heard of an engine failure due to a oil hose related leak...yet. If failures were even remotely common, I'm sure there would be a lot of kicking and screaming.....especially here.
Best of luck on your next change.
I have an 07 I just don't see the value of the kit. it's not hard to change the stock filter and only takes 20 min to change the filter. the oil filter should be hand tighten only
i just installed a jardine ork on my bike-very simple,straight forward job-it also makes it ALOT easier to service the bike...20 mins to change the oil and filter without the ork ??? that's funny,real funny,i had to use my torch to heat up the exhaust studs to reposition the front pipe-that took 20 mins right there...it's certainly not the fault of the kit if the oil filter was stuck,sounds like 2 things to me,lack of maintainance,and improper installation...i use a dab of grease on oil filters,been doing this for as long as i can remember-i'm was a certified bmw master tech,before i made a big carreer change...the ork is a great addition to the bike,as far as the hoses go,the kit i got the hoses are pretty substantial...
after you've done it once, changing the oil is not that hard. I would guess if you had all your tools out and didn't have to get any torches out, that you could do it in under 30 minutes without an ORK. I don't plan on getting one.
I guess it depends on the person,But i do agree changing the oil without an orx was not that big of a deal.I dont have $250.00 to spend on convienance.
I had a barons on mine, after 2 years and 2 sets of hoses that kept leaking on the swivals, I took it off and went back to the original set up. Also got worried, when reading about how the ork lowers the oil pressure. When I get the money to get a set made I may put it back on, just dont if I want to spend the money on the hoses.
I had a barons on mine, after 2 years and 2 sets of hoses that kept leaking on the swivals, I took it off and went back to the original set up. Also got worried, when reading about how the ork lowers the oil pressure. When I get the money to get a set made I may put it back on, just dont if I want to spend the money on the hoses.
whoever told you using this kit will LOWER the oil pressure is wrong-this person has no clue what they're talking about...
Ever try teflon tape on the fittings? There has been a lot of discussion about the possibility of starving the top end for oil on these bikes. mainly due to the small oil line size on the orks. I've had no problem in 18,000 miles. I never put on the filter dry. I prime the filter, Fill it before I install it. Then ifill the crankcase, and run the bike afew minutes. and add oil to bring it to the full mark in the window. ,LB
Have Baron's ork, no problems. Follow the instructions - the oil lines are different sizing AND BE SURE TO USE TEFLON on the threads. Put only 3 quarts in the crank case. The filter is a K&N 303c for the chrome or just 303 for the standard black. The filter has a hole in the top so you can safety-wire it to the frame. Good Luck
Which brand would be the best for the buck?
Which brand would be the best for the buck?
i got the jardine ork...incredibly easy installation...
jardineproducts.com/products/searchType/vehicleSearch/year/2002/make/YAMAHA/model/XVS1100%20V-STAR/sfID1/4/sfID2/5/sfID3/54
my local dealer had it in stock...
Wow....300 bucks!!! The ones for a car are only $20 or so. I think jardine is the kit my bike has. I have the chrome cover and the braided lines and my cover is held on by three set screw. Not totally sure I like that arrangement yet.
There must be differences between the ORK manufactures. I too opted for the Jardine and have had zero problems with it. No leaks at all, no difficulty in removing my filter, no lubrications issues, no strange noises and a heck of a lost easier and cheaper vs. the dealer charged bucks for an oil change! It takes me less than 30 minutes to it all. Would I do it again you? Absolutely.
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