Motorcycle Club » Star 1100 Classic & Custom

stock exhaust mod

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  1. onenemjou

    i saw this write up on, and am curious if anyone has tried it? if found a local guy who is selling his stock pipes, and i thought about trying it out. i'm really like the way the stock pipes look actualy. (pics are on the

    Exhaust Modification

    WHY? I've been pretty much satisfied with the performance of this bike, so I had not planned any modifications to the intake or exhaust systems. Call me crazy, but I kinda like the looks of the stock exhaust anyway. The exhaust note is just a bit quiet for my taste, however, so I began looking for a way to open it up just a bit. I've heard a V Star 1100 with holes drilled in the stock exhaust, and it sounded a bit raspy to me. I saw a post on the ISRA Forum about an exhaust modification done by Tom Hill and it sounded like something I'd like to try. Here's what I did:

    This view shows the cuts through the first layer of metal

    THE PROCESS. (Please note that this applies to the VStar 1100 only--the 650 has a different muffler construction. We have also received word that this does not work on 2006 Vstar 1100s. At the end of this article there are tips for 2006 exhausts.) I bought a bimetal hole saw (1-1/2") at a local hardware store. Using it and a heavy-duty drill I cut around the opening of the 1" pipe in the center of each exhaust. Don't worry about centering the hole saw; the conical shape of the inside of the exhaust will do it for you. I cut through two layers of metal before each pipe broke loose.

    Just give it a good tug!

    After the pipes were cut loose, I used a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove them. Grab, wiggle and tug. They popped right out

    Here are the restrictive baffles that were removed

    Here are the pipes that were removed--very restrictive!

    This view shows the internal baffles

    Here is a shot of the end of the exhaust with the pipes removed. If you decide to leave them like this you'll want to use a file or Dremel grinder to clean up the edges of the new exhaust opening, then paint it flat black. At this stage the noise was a deep rumble, but full throttle was a little loud for my taste. I decided to try Tom's trick of slipping 1-1/2" pipes into the larger openings.

    Adding Pipe Inserts. I went to the local muffler shop and asked for some 1-1/2" aluminized steel pipe. They gave me a couple of pieces out of the scrap bin at no charge.

    I cut a couple of lengths of pipe about 5" long then cleaned and de-burred the ends. I used some coarse sandpaper to rough up the outside of the pipes, them de-greased them with solvent. I bought some J-B Weld at an auto parts store; this is a putty-like epoxy that can be used with metal and will withstand high heat. I rolled a piece of the putty into a string, wrapped it around one of the pipes then slipped it into the opening at the end of the exhaust. I then used a small stick to press the epoxy into place and smooth it out. I had to center the pipe in position pretty quickly, as the epoxy set up in under 5 minutes.

    After 30 minutes the pipes were firmly in place, looking like they had been welded there. I painted them with black high-temp paint for a cleaner look. Now the sound is just about perfect! New note: Rich Galle in Dallas came up with an ingenious twist to the inserts--he shopped around his local home improvement store and found a 1-1/2" chrome piece in the plumbing aisle that fits here perfectly. He doesn't even weld them in--just slips them in or removes them depending on the sound he wants. The item looks like this:

    RESULTS. Really nice. I've kept the looks of the stock exhaust while improving on the sound. I have watched the plugs pretty carefully, and it looks like I won't have to re-jet the carbs. With the center baffle gone there was quite a bit of backfiring, so I elected to remove the AIS system. To see an article on that process, click here. Mike Johnson from Georgia has been kind enough to provide sound files of the pipes, before and after. Click here to hear the Stock pipes. Click here to hear the same pipes after the center baffles have been removed Modified pipes.

    WORTH THE MONEY? Absolutely! The whole project was done for about $10. I only wish that all my V Star mods were so inexpensive.

    2006 Exhaust Tips from Robert Garrison Jr.: In order to modify the 06 exhaust you have to use both an inch and a quarter and a 2 and a quarter inch hole saw. You cut both holes through the end cap and remove the rings of metal. This should leave one piece of baffle pipe sticking out. You need to wiggle it around to get it as loose as possible, then using large channel locks or vice grips, grab the piece of pipe and hit it with a 2 pound hammer trying to knock the pipe back out of the end of the pipe(hit from front to rear). You have to hit it really hard several times and it will scare you at first but the pipe has a rounded end that has to be forced through the hole. I also used a dremel tool on mine when the larger hole saw wore out. I used the dremel tool to cut out the rings of metal. This modification worked great and the pipes sounded awesome. If you can't afford new pipes this modification definitely is worth the time and money it takes. My friend rides a harley with vance and hines pipes on it and he could hear my modified stocks when riding with me.

  2. N2cr7zharg

    Just finished doing it (for the most part) this week on my 07 1100 Classic. The sound is a lot better!

    It took a bit of help from a LONG screwdrivers to get the inner pipe out to finish it as, for the life of me, I could not get out that pipe with vise grips and a sledge (had to enlarge the 2nd baffle hole just a tiny bit with the screwdriver to get it out). I cleaned up the cuts with a dremel tool (for the most part - will hit it again once it warms up again) and put a basic coat of exhaust paint on it to prevent rust through the winter (will repaint come spring and it's above 50 degrees).

    Keep in mind that the pipes changed in 06 and if the local guy has an earlier set and you've got a later set (or vise versa) you'll need the exhaust hanger that goes with the set you want to use.

    Oh, and a bit of advise if you do this. Get a Bi-Metal hole saw and use cutting oil. Going this route, I didn't have to buy 2 or 3 hole saws as I was able to cut through both exhaust ports with the one (and could easily do more).

  3. onenemjou

    any rejetting needed in your experience?

  4. N2cr7zharg

    No rejetting appears to be needed.

    I wondered about that as well before I did it, but seems everyone on the Delphi forum stated no re-jetting was required on theirs. The bike seems to run fine afterwards on the short run I've had it out on so far. Unfortunately the temps dropped while I was finishing it up and it's in the 30's when I'm home in the evenings. Hopefully I'll get it out tomorrow or Sunday during the day to at least drain the carb's for the winter (again). And I plan to keep an eye on the plugs for a while....

    One thing I did do was turn out the PMS a little bit. I checked and I was set for 1.75 turns from the factory so I didn't want to be too lean. I plan to add a K&N filter as well shortly.

  5. mopoj

    i did the mod on the stock mufflers very easy to do. a friend of mine adjusted
    the carbs. no jetting. since then i have tried cobra slash cuts and now have
    roadhouse 65s on but both are to harsh for me. think i am going back to stock
    mods. plus i like the looks of the stocks.


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