Motorcycle Club » Star 650 Classic & Custom

Stainless Steel Brake Line

10 posts from 4 voices
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  1. ynordonzr
    #

    How hard is it to change? Is there a web site with step to step directions? Should I change the clutch cable while I'm at it?

    I installed 1.5 inch risers and I also wanted to know how long to extend the line. My driveway is at a 60* angle and I back down it in the morning, hand on the brake lever, and the current brake cable can extend all the way out when I have to stop the bike.

  2. FrajAtyacend
    #

    Somebody recently posted a link to a site that makes longer than stock cables... there was one that was 2" longer than stock, which would probably work well.

    Swapping the line should only be a few bolts. DO catch the brake fluid and do not let it drip on any paint. I'd get some tubing and open the bleed valve, then drain all of the fluid before disconnecting either end of the existing brake line. Have plenty of rags on hand to clean up the fluid.

    When you have the new line installed, use fresh brake fluid. You'll kill two birds with one stone - replacing the brake line and bleeding the system.

  3. VTvinChic
    #

    The swap is really easy.

    As mentioned, make sure DOT 4 fluid doesn't get on the paint - it makes repainting very difficult. Also, be sure to keep the new lines and bolts clean - keep it off the floor and away from any sawdust or any other small particles. It helps to have an assistant with you, but is not necessary. You can reuse the washers between the banjo bolt and the hex bolt (by heating them until red-hot), but for $0.80 each, I'd rather not chance a leak.

    1) Place a plastic cover (large garbage bag, etc) over the painted surfaces of your bike. If any fluid gets on it, I don't want to hear the crying.

    2) At the caliper end, remove the hex bolt that fastens the banjo bolt (the part that looks like an eye-bolt with a hole in the tubing) to the calipers and place the loose hose end into a bucket or drip pan.

    3) Remove the front brake fluid reservoir top cover (using JIS screwdriver - it looks like a Phillips, but is longer and narrower), and pull back the silicone shield and inner cover. This will relieve the vacuum, and fluid will begin to flow into the bucket.

    4) Once the fluid is drained (or have a partner hold their finger over the bolt hole to keep fluid in the reservoir), take the old hose and discard it. Keep the upper banjo bolt's rubber boot if necessary.

    5) Route the new cable through any wire/hose guides you have on the bike. (Universal fit hoses will not have the mounting block the OEM had - this is no cause for concern). Re-install the rubber boot from the OEM hose if necessary.

    6) Place a washer on each side of the banjo bolt and insert the hex bolt back in through the banjo bolt onto the reservoir.

    7) Repeat step 6 for the caliper end.

    8) Tighten all fittings then proceed to either 9A or 9B to bleed the line, depending on time or preference.

    9 A) Traditional: Reinstall the reservoir lid. Bleed line in traditional fashion by releasing the bleed valve and pumping the brake.

    9 B) Alternative bleed: Do not put the lid back on the reservoir yet. Place some cloth or cardboard around the grip and run a cable tie around the brake and grip, pulling it tight. Let it set for a few hours or overnight with the lid open and brake lever puled. Idea is to let the air bubbles rise out of the line on their own. Brake will be beautifully touch-sensitive, depending on how much space you inserted between the lever and grip.

    10) Make a few test stops without the engine running - you don't want to get out on the road and realize you forgot to tighten a bolt!

    11) Enjoy your new SS brake line!

  4. ynordonzr
    #

    you can spend allot of money for screwdrivers you don't need, what size will fit the master cylender cover, 000, 00, 0, 1, 2 ? allot of different types and I would only need one.

  5. retzdaret
    #

    The one in the tool kit fits it perfect and is the screwdriver you want to use for that cover because it's a JIS head and not a Philips head.

  6. ynordonzr
    #

    I understand that, I have stripped out a screw for the master cylinder before and paid to have it fixed, I just didn't want to pay 21 to 26 dollars for 4 JIS screwdrivers when I could order 1 of 7

  7. retzdaret
    #

    I understand that, I have stripped out a screw for the master cylinder before and paid to have it fixed, I just didn't want to pay 21 to 26 dollars for 4 JIS screwdrivers when I could order 1 of 7
    Again, why are you paying for a screwdriver when the bike comes with one? Did you loose your tool kit?

  8. ynordonzr
    #

    No, I just never bothered to look, I will when I get home today. I know that there is a reversible "Philips" screwdriver with the set I just never pulled it out because I have 20 in my toolbox. I know it's a "JIS" so I'll see

  9. ynordonzr
    #

    It's there, Thank you

  10. retzdaret
    #

    Glad I could help.

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