Motorcycle Club » Star 1100 Classic & Custom

Quick oil filter change?

15 posts from 6 voices
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  1. AiginudNY
    #

    Is there a reason to have the large outer cover over the oil filter? I would think that the actual oil filter cover held in by three screws would be enough to hold the oil in.

    On Pacific Coast Star web page they have what looks like a chromed oil filter cover with just the three holes.

    I would like to spend some time with the "engineer" who designed this bike with such a demonic way of reaching the oil filter. I think a couple of firm taps with the exhaust pipes upside his or her head should do the trick.

  2. AtChrome
    #

    Actually the 1100 Engine was Designed for the Virago initially and it was such a great engine they used it in the 1100 Vstar...

    Not so bad after you do it a few times, we offer a thin Oil filter cover that helps alittle with getting the pipes out of the way..

  3. AiginudNY
    #

    It looks like the chrome cover just replaces the "Yamaha" cover that is part of the larger oil filter cover assy on the lower right side of the engine. Still have the hassle of pulling the saddlebag to get to the muffler mount nut from the top, remove the mufflers, remove the front exhaust pipe, loosen the right foot control, and then get to all the screws to remove the outer cover.

    I have bought some really short metric allen wrenches and some angled ones for work and I'll give them a try latter this summer on the next oil change. If they don't work any better I'll look at just using ther inner oil filter plate. If that does not go well it wil be ORK time.

    Reminds me of a V-8 I had in the 70's to change one of the spark plugs you had to remove the engine mounts and lift the whole engine to reach the last plug, because of the A/C evaporator on the firewall. GM service manager looked at me like I was a nutcase when I complained about how much the tune up cost.

    I have no complaints about the 1100 engines performance, just with the oil filter or the exhaust design engineers.

  4. AtChrome
    #

    I never pulled the Muffler off just the Front Exhaust

  5. vgink18054
    #

    there is really no reason for that stock outer cover, if you put a oil filter relocation kit on you dont put that cover back on.
    other than it covering the UGLY stock filter cover.

  6. bkman
    #

    Quote:
    I have no complaints about the 1100 engines performance, just with the oil filter or the exhaust design engineers.
    Not to dispute you - I think you have a valid gripe, but it's really just a case of value engineering. As was mentioned before, the engine from the Virago was perfectly acceptable for the new mid-size V-Star cruiser, and the cost of a clean-sheet engine design would have driven the cost of the V-Stars up quite a lot. The oil filter was wide out in the open on the Virago, and I think the exhaust engineers really did make the most of the situation on the stock V-Star exhaust. They made it as easy as I think it could be. I bought an ORK, though, because my Cobra exhaust would have been a terrible pain to remove every oil change.

  7. vakonman
    #

    Hey bkman,
    I also have Cobra exhaust pipes on my 1100. While remounting the front exhaust pipe I noticed that when I torqued the mounting nuts to 20 Nm per spec that the flange bent slightly. Have you had that experience? I checked on my neighbors new 1100 and the stock flange is substantially thicker than the one Cobra supplies with their pipes. I bought the bike with the pipes already on so I have no installation instructions and I couldn't find any info on their web site about torque values. To what value do you torque your exhaust pipe flange nuts? Thanks.

  8. bkman
    #

    Actually, I started torquing my flange bolts down - and noticed that they were bending. I stopped immediately and decided to do it by "feel". I figured that, as long as it didn't leak, I didn't need to be exact on the torque - at least not on these particular fasteners. I didn't have any leaks when I fired it up, so I left well-enough alone.

  9. vakonman
    #

    bkman,
    How do you test for exhaust leaks? Is it by sound or feel or what ...? Also, since I'm asking about leak detection, do you know how one tests for vacuum leaks around the carbs? Thanks.

  10. retzdaret
    #

    bkman,How do you test for exhaust leaks? Is it by sound or feel or what ...? Also, since I'm asking about leak detection, do you know how one tests for vacuum leaks around the carbs? Thanks.
    If you got an exhaust leak, you will most likely hear a popping sound from the exhaust.

    For a vacuum leak, you want spray around your carbs with carb cleaner while the bike is running. If there is a leak, the engine will surge when you hit it.

  11. vakonman
    #

    Thanks retzdaret. Seems that the exhaust popping can be caused by a number of factors. I'm not sure I have my front exhaust flange nuts torqued correctly. I can only attach my torque wrench on one of the nuts. The other nut has no clearance for a socket so I could only use an open end wrench and try to compare its' torque to the properly torqued nut.
    Also, I've recently adjusted the PMS to be leaner and I understand that too lean can also cause the popping. I may have a two-headed monster here. I guess I have to determine if I have a lean condition or a leaky exhaust pipe.

  12. retzdaret
    #

    Did you change out your crush gaskets when you replaced/removed your exhaust? That is the biggest cause of exhaust leaks. They can only be used once. When the exhaust is removed, they need to be replaced.

    You would have to be extremely lean to cause popping. I highly doubt adjusting your PMS caused it. Is your AIS removed?

  13. vakonman
    #

    Yeah, I installed a new exhaust gasket and the AIS is disabled. I have removed the AIS pump but haven't removed the tubing and plugged the ports yet. After riding about 150 miles since adjusting the PMS, the plugs look to be a greyish-brown color rather than one being covered in a black soot and the other being almost white, as they were previously. I intend to remove the remainder of the AIS but I don't want to change too many items at once so I can revert the one change if necessary. It's easier to trouble shoot problems if only one change has occured, rather than a number of changes.
    On a side note, I am confused as to how a lean condition would cause popping in the exhaust pipes. I've been told that the popping is due to unspent fuel combusting in the pipe. However, wouldn't a rich condition cause there to be unspent fuel. Rich means more fuel (lower AFR) and lean means less fuel (higher AFR) so wouldn't rich increase the possibility of not all the fuel being burnt in the combustion chamber? Can you explain? Thanks.

  14. retzdaret
    #

    First off, your plugs color is perfect. I assume the bike is running good now so I would not mess with your carb settings any further.

    Lean doesn't cause the popping you are hearing. In extreme lean conditions, you will get lean ignition and that can actually cause damage to your engine or pipes. With your plugs being close to a perfect coffee color, you are nowhere near that.

    You are going to have unburnt fuel in your exhaust pretty much no matter what you do. Yes you will get it more in a rich condition than a lean condition, but you will still have it. What causes the popping is the adding of fresh air to the exhaust that cases it to burn. This occurred in your stock exhaust, but because of it's setup, you never heard it. The AIS was actually designed to put fresh air into the exhaust to cause it to burn for anti pollution purposes. What you need to figure out is where the air is getting in.

    You said you disabled your AIS. How did you do it? If your tubing has a leak somewhere, this can cause the popping. I would start by tracing it looking for possible leaks.

  15. vakonman
    #

    I have a better understanding of the lean/popping issue now. Thanks. The bike is running great and the popping is sporatic and only on deceleration near idle speed rpms. I can live with it. I was just concerned that it may be causing engine damage so I wanted to eliminate the cause.
    Only the tubing from the AIS system remains (the pump has been removed). I was also wondering if they may be leaking so I disconnected them from the fittings on their respective exhaust ports. (They are looped back on each other via the original rubber tubing down by where the AIS pump was mounted.) I plugged one with my finger and blew hard into the other like I was blowing into a breath analyzer. I know this is a primitive test but there didn't seem to be any leaking. I plan to remove these tubes soon when I have time.

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