Motorcycle Club » Star 1300

Progressive springs install and still have Clunk

35 posts from 14 voices
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  1. kvperrjhill
    #

    I installed the new progressive springs per instructions. The darn thing still goes clunk. I'm guessing it is the fork bearing. I followed the instructions but only put a 2 3/4 " spacer instead of the 3". I plan on taking to the dealer again. The first time I asked them to check it out was at the 600 mile service. They couldn't hear a clunk but admitted they did not drive it far. Any suggestions?

  2. MorkKW
    #

    First, it was a mistake to have installed a shorter spacer than the required/suggested 3" length. There are hundreds of us who have switched to those same progressive springs during the past year and almost all have eliminated completely the infamous "clunk," while also improving our bike's tracking and handling.

    Morg

  3. auzzie808
    #

    I also installed Progressive Springs, and had a noticeable improvement in the front end, and a greatly reduce occurrence of the "clunk", bu it would still happen when I hit big pot holes or bumps.
    Then,,,,at the 30 k service, they found that the steering head bearing stem nut was cross threaded.
    I get the bike back tomorrow, after 3 weeks off the road waiting for parts.
    Fortunately it has been covered by warranty.
    In my opinion, if you have the "clunk", you have a steering head bearing problem that ought to be fixed under warranty.

  4. NASCAR32
    #

    Let me know if the clunk is completely gone after service. My bike is a 2009 with 1600 miles, progressive springs installed and in big bumps it makes a clunk not as hard as before. I sent it to service at 600 miles and told them about the crossthread, they checked the whole front en, I was present, and it's not cross threaded.

    Let me know if it still clunk in big bumps, I thinking th noise is from the covers that the fork have.

    Bye

  5. kvperrjhill
    #

    Morg,

    You may be correct about the length of the spacer but the guy that wrote the instructions on how to replace the springs stated he thought the ride was a little stiff and would have cut it to 2 1/2 " if he had it to do over again (his opinion). The instructions that came with the springs mentioned reducing the length at 1/4 " increments. I may change the spacers out to 3" and see what happens. Thanks.

  6. MorkKW
    #

    I'll end this thread by totally disagreeing with the 2-1/2" length, which partially defeats the purpose of installing those progressive springs. Plus the fact that, not only do I not find the front springs too stiff, but they absolutely provide noticeably more controllable responses from the front forks in any given situation, doing precisely what they're designed to do.

  7. retzdaret
    #

    This weekend I'm putting them on my 650. I have a good set of directions for doing it, but was wondering if anyone came up with any good tricks or things to watch for when doing it?

  8. MorkKW
    #

    Just work slowly, especially when removing the stock springs, being careful to allow the oil to drip back down and remain inside the forks. Here..this may help, even though it's directed specifically for the 1300, with the process being fairly similar in many instances:

    Installing Progressive Springs

    Be well.

    Morg

  9. retzdaret
    #

    Morg, Thank you for the link. Did you reuse the oil? I actual bought a bottle of 10W fork oil as recommended in a write up I read for the 650. It was cheep so I figured it would be better to change it while I was doing this. Did you have to add more oil?

  10. Driwetapisnezz
    #

    When you pull out the old springs, try not to spaz like I did and drop your removal tool (e.g. piece of coat hanger) back down the forks!

  11. retzdaret
    #

    Driwetapisnezz, I would love to see how you got that out of the forks.

  12. MorkKW
    #

    Regarding the changing of the oil...if you're considering doing it, there's certainly no better time to change it than when most everything is all apart. Mine was done long ago and, since no oil was lost in the swap and the oil was still like new, the stock oil was retained.

    Morg

    ps: oh, yeah....try really hard not to do as DDB did. (ha!!!)

  13. Driwetapisnezz
    #

    Driwetapisnezz, I would love to see how you got that out of the forks.
    I took another piece of coat hanger and wrapped tape sticky-side-out all around the end.

    Then, using a flashlight, I looked down the tube and put the taped end up against the end of my "tool".

    It was actually pretty easy, even for someone with my limited manual dexterity.

  14. kvperrjhill
    #

    ausie1300,

    Let me know if that clunk totally disappears after you get the bike back. Good luck!

  15. cole2273
    #

    I could be very wrong, but I too had the clunks but as I took apart the headlight I found what I thought to be the problem and it was the mass of shit inside the light bouncing around and not properly secured like it should be. and to my surprise it seemed to fix the problem (with mine) and now I think the only time that I had the clunk after that was when the shocks fully EXTENEDED on a hard bump.

  16. ylzhooder
    #

    I'll be doing this install in the next two weeks or so.

    Questions about the oil in the forks. If I decide to drain it, how much should be added. If I don't drain it, how much should I add? Is it advisable to replace the oil? And what type of oil should be used or is ok to be used?

  17. retzdaret
    #

    I know for the 650 it is supposed to be less than 16oz. I would imagine they are close. Here is the write up for doing it on the 650. Has some good info on how to drain, etc.

    650ccnd.com

  18. unpitten
    #

    The recommended front suspension capacities are as follows:

    Yamaha fork oil 10wt
    Quantity 490.0 cm3 (16.57 US oz) (17.28 Imp oz)
    Level 105.0 mm (4.13 in)

    You can download an online manual here.

  19. retzdaret
    #

    If you are ordering the springs from phatperformanceparts.com, you can order the oil from them as well. If you spend over $99.00 on your order, they have free shipping. The springs and oil don't not cost that much, but if there is something else you need, it's a good deal.

  20. auzzie808
    #

    ausie1300, Let me know if that clunk totally disappears after you get the bike back. Good luck!
    Hey GW, I got thge bike back on Thursday afternoon (Oz time) and have put about 1300 klm on her since. Yamaha covered it all on warranty.
    When they put the front end back together - after the warranty repair on the cross threaded steering head nut- they put 15w (stock is 10w) oil in the forks.
    On the motorway it was great, but I thought it may be too stiff on some of the rougher roads we ride, so, I took her for a run around the back of the the Gold Cost hinterland ( Numbinbah Valley, Murwillumbah, Springbrook, Beechmont, for those who know the area) and gave her a trial on some 2cnd and 3rd rate roads. (great scenery, good corners, but the surface can be a bit lumpy) We checked out a waterfall and a few side roads, had a great day.
    After a while I got used to it, and at this stage I think the 15w is a good thing. But, remember, I also have the Progressive Springs.
    Today I had a pillion for a short time, and all was well, the bike felt good, front end was great.
    Anyway, over the 1300 klm, i have not had the "clunk", and I have put her over some pretty sh*ty roads in the last couple of days.( My friend with a Warrior says he was jarred by some of the stuff we went over).
    So, final wash, the front end is tight and feels great with the new steering head bearings at the correct torque and with some grease, and the springs feel good after getting used to them.
    Gee, I tell you what, it's GREAT to get your bike back!!!!
    Hope you all had a good weekend too.

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