Motorcycle Club » Star 1300

Problems with the V Star 1300

32 posts from 16 voices
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  1. frok
    #

    have just got to my first service time have noticed that the closer i got to the 1000k mark motor was getting more rattley so can only assume oil is breaking down hence the need to service the machine on time...got to admit the more i ride this thing the more i am impressed and i dont impress very easily...

    frok

  2. relliod33
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    Got my tourer 3 weeks ago, now almost 900 miles on the clock. Just got back from a 150 mile ride down the back roads of Ohio and Pennsylvania. The bike performed beautifully. Averaged 51.7 miles per gallon. Ordered a Nelson Rigg Survivor SVT1000 Jumbo Weekender Sissybar Bag for some longer trips, but probably won't be doing those until next year. Also found bag liners on another web site for $39.95. Added the luggage rack and passenger floorboards when I bought the bike. The wife needs to be comfortable too. Well, so far so good. Love the bike.

    Bob

  3. tanjniym
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    Guys, I just got my V Star 1300 two weeks ago and its a great bike although its my first motorcycle. The issue I have is that I hear a clunking noise when I go over deep bumps or potholes in the road. Took it to the dealer and they said this may be a normal sound for this model bike. What do you think?

  4. tmorr
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    Hi, I have almost 600 miles on a new 1300 Tourer. When I hit a sharp ridge in the pavement it sounds like something is slapping against the bottom of the fuel tank. I have checked under the tank and there are hoses but nothing that should make the kind of noise I am hearing. Only happens when I hit a sharp ridge in the pavement. I will bring it to the attention of the service dept. when I have the 600 mile check. Other than that, the bike is great and breaking in just fine.

  5. tanjniym
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    tmorr, I have exactly the same problem. It's kind of hard to determine where exactly the noise is coming from but I do feel it in the tank area. Took it to the dealer and they maily focused on the front suspension but were clueless where the noise is coming from or if this noise is normal for the 1300. I hope some of the members here can offer some input.

  6. tanjniym
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    Contacted Yamaha Sports Center in Pompton Plains NJ and the Service Manager was familiar with this issue. He told me that he worked on this issue for a customer and Yamaha. He replaced the entire frot fork at Yamaha's request and even removed the fuel tank without a resolution. Yamaha is aware of this issue and will hopefully find a fix for it.

  7. gpassell
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    I just purchased a V Star earlier this week. I've read some problems others are experiencing with their V Star 1300 and would like to get your responses to each of them. Have you heard and/or experienced any of the problems? How did you correct the problem if you experienced it?The problems include: 1) rust at the saddlebag welds that are noticed when the bags are taken off2) loud clutch noises when in neutral with the clutch released, rattling in the transmission when in neutral and off of the clutch3) valve noises, and 4) engine and gear noise.Additionally, I understand there are two ways to break in a bike. Can anyone explain the two approaches and the thought behind both?
    1. Bought the tourer kit and the saddlebag welds came out of the package rusted – go figure
    2. Yamahas are known to be a bit klanky, but should not rattle – some guys recommend a 50w oil, but this is a new bike so I cant agree with the oil bit. When was the last time you changed the oil?
    3. 4. see item 2 and if it is bad – go to the dealer. Expect to spend the day with the dealer, and if they are good they will let you watch – despite the insurance liability claim that most dealers spout – just stay out of the way. Just a note, if you ride the demo’s, they purr, so more than likely its just a question of tuning your baby up – valves, clutch, etc.

    This next part gets long.

    There are 2 trains of thought on break-in: Manufacturer recommendation (be nice and gentile cause she’s new); and the Wail-On-That-Baby till she squeals (or some such variation). The first one is self explanatory, this is what the manufacturer says, so don’t void the warranty by doing something different (that’s the reasoning). The second one requires some explaining, so here is a simple explanation.
    Cylinder walls in a new engine are cross hatched. When piston rings are driven up and down over the cylinder walls, the walls are ground smooth to a polish. This allows the rings to seat or seal perfectly to the cylinder chamber which improves compression and combustion, hence the bike performs at maximum efficiency. This cross-hatching wears off in the first 20 – 30 miles, and that’s it – finished, done, over, - engine is broken in – seals are set. (Please note that the transmission still has not settled in so the break-in period still applies for the transmission). So why Wail on it.
    When the engine is running at maximum RPM the pistons actually stretch a couple of angstroms (units measured in 1/1000) so the stroke is longer, not much, but it is there. If you run the engine per manufacturers spec (no maximum RPM), within 20-30 miles the cylinder walls will be buffed to a nice polish and the seals seated correctly. So, now that you’ve broken her in its time to ride her hard. As you hit the high end RPM’s the rings encounter the cross-hatching that was not polished off, and do what they were made to do – polish the walls. This process grinds off the remaining hatching, the metal filings are pulled over the previous polished walls and score them – permanently. This results in lost compression, hence a reduced performance. That is the thought behind the Wail technique.
    On that note, change the oil after 40 or 50 miles max, no reason to let the bulk of the metal filings continue to float around. I suggest using the Purolator PureOne filter PL14610 for the 1300, I use shell Rotella T 15w-40 for the first 600 miles. After that I would suggest the full synthetic oil. By the way, the filter is bigger than stock so add a little more oil – she will also run cooler.
    If you followed manufacturers procedure, that’s okay, the 1300 is a sturdy beast and will perform anyway.

  8. Driwetapisnezz
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    This is the kind of thread that makes me lose sleep. The service dept. at my dealer told me to baby her - nothing past half throttle for the first 300 mi and nothing past 3/4 throttle till the 600 mile service and beyond to 1000 miles.

    My mileage at 600 was better than it is now at 3000. I use only premium unleaded and usually Chevron. I have noticed that my mileage tends to drop off with gas from local stations - all the crap they add for emissions that they don't add elsewhere in CA or in neighboring states. At least I hope that's what it is - I've had the same result with every vehicle I've had since I've lived here. Changed the oil again at 3,000 miles.

    I've seen in other posts guys talking about fouling plugs if you baby the engine. Could that be part of my mileage going down?

  9. gpassell
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    Hey Drive,
    About the best you can do is change the oil regularly, check your tire pressure, and focus on your throttle/driving techniques. Crappy gas could be a problem. Try Mobil or Exxon, cost more but a good detergent gas may be needed.
    Has anyone tried those new "Pulse Plugs?"
    The're very expensive but sound promising.
    Anybody have any word on these plugs?
    www.pulstarplug.com is the site.

  10. tell203
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    Guys, For break-in, I just ride 'em. You don't baby it, a multitude of websites can tell you why. The main thing is, change your oil anytime between the 1st 100&300 miles, change it while the engine is HOT! That 1st oil change gets any metal out of the ports and cylinders. Stick with conventional oils until at least 1500 miles, then switch to synthetics if you want. I changed to synth oil @ 1800 miles a couple weeks ago, and 250 miles later the clutch noise has all but disappeared, and it's a magic carpet ride now, stronger and smoother. It's a sweet ride, don't give up on it yet!

  11. azdeinz
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    I got my 1300T last week and i have that strange noise too. I haven looked and looked for this noise, and nothing. The way i explain the noise is a nut in a old coffee can. any help!

  12. chaser38
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    ...or a marble in the gas tank. I hear that noise every once in awhile, but at the same time, the bike feels the same; the engine sounds the same; nothing else seems to matter. Just a strange sound that rolls around every 100 miles. Nothing ever comes of it, strange as it sounds.

    My mechanic said (and he was probably trying to stroke me...) the bike is built like a Porsche.

    Anyway, it's been a good ride.

    Chaz

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