Motorcycle Club » Star 1100 Classic & Custom

Passing lamps

13 posts from 7 voices
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  1. hijamooze
    #

    Just installed a new set of passing lamps and relocated the turn signals on my 1100 Classic. As my luck has it, I was missing the last piece - the plastic crimp to attach the passing lamps lead to a lead on the headlight.

    My local dealer, who is great, is trying to get the part but thinks I will have to return the lamps, which means removing and reinstalling. No chance after finally getting the concave washers just so...

    So I have 2 questions...first, anybody know which lead on the headlight I need to attach the red passing lamps lead to? There are 3 wires. I know I can set it up so that the passing lamps are always on, or only when I use the high beam. Which wires allow for which option?

    Second, a $2 10 pack of radio shack crimps may do the trick (radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104093) instead of waiting on Yamaha. Anybody know if this would work?

  2. yaro
    #

    Info from KB:

    Wire Colors in Headlight Bucket

    Yellow = High Beam Hot

    Green = Low Beam Hot

    Blue = Both Running Lights / Switched Hot - good place to "drive" solenoids

    Dark-Green = Right Turn signal

    Chocolate = Left Turn signal

    Black = Ground

    Good luck!

  3. dez1877
    #

    When I installed mine, it didn't come with that piece either. No big deal, just wire it direct. Splice and connect the wires, and you're good to go.

  4. hijamooze
    #

    I wanted to get the squeeze in connectors rather than trying to strip wires because the factory insulator/sleeve leaves very little wire exposed on the leads to the headlight. Cleaner and easier with the squeeze connector.

    So, I guess its to the green or blue wire? If I hook it into the blue lead for the running lights, won't a turn signal affect the highbeams? The turn signal causes the running light to blink, which means periodic electrical flow is interupted. Only real choice seems to be low beam lead, which means the lamps would only be affected when I used the high beam. Am I missing something?

  5. LiddleBen
    #

    I would go with the Green Lowbeam wire. that way the running lights are on when you need them for extra visibility and in low visability driving conditions where high beams create too much glare. This is how they are wired on most cars produced today. On with low beam off with high beam.. Just me.,L.B.

  6. hijamooze
    #

    Cool. Thanks all for the help! Low beam seems to be the way to go from what I can tell.

    Will post pics once its all done.

  7. LasjDavk
    #

    Just installed a new set of passing lamps and relocated the turn signals on my 1100 Classic. As my luck has it, I was missing the last piece - the plastic crimp to attach the passing lamps lead to a lead on the headlight.My local dealer, who is great, is trying to get the part but thinks I will have to return the lamps, which means removing and reinstalling. No chance after finally getting the concave washers just so...So I have 2 questions...first, anybody know which lead on the headlight I need to attach the red passing lamps lead to? There are 3 wires. I know I can set it up so that the passing lamps are always on, or only when I use the high beam. Which wires allow for which option?Second, a $2 10 pack of radio shack crimps may do the trick (www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2104093) instead of waiting on Yamaha. Anybody know if this would work?
    The link you show to Radio Shack, in my business we have nicknamed them Vampire Crimps

    Anyway, it is my humble recommendation to NOT use them. They can cause you some serious headaches down the road (literally) when they start to fail. Your best bet is to splice and solder. If you can't solder then splice with crimp butt splices. Even if you have to add wire further back in the system to get you enough working length in the Headlight bucket.

    I know it is a bit more work, but to avoid intermittent electrical issues later, it is worth the effort now.

    Just my .02

    Good luck

    Jeff

  8. hijamooze
    #

    Are the connectors usually included in the passing lamp kit by Yamaha different than the Vampire Crimps?

    I looked at one when I got home (5 minutes ago) and now have concerns as well. It has 2 channels that appear to pierce both sides of the insulation on the wire lead. Certainly may cut the wire as well. I'm thinking soldering is the best with a little shrink tube on it.

    This wouldn't be fun if it weren't such a project I suppose.

    Also, is the switch for the directional on the running lights before or after the harness behind the headlight? It must be closer to the switch on the handlebar, which means if I connect it to the running lights lead, the passing lamps will blink in time with the directional, right?

  9. yaro
    #

    Are the connectors usually included in the passing lamp kit by Yamaha different than the Vampire Crimps?I looked at one when I got home (5 minutes ago) and now have concerns as well. It has 2 channels that appear to pierce both sides of the insulation on the wire lead. Certainly may cut the wire as well. I'm thinking soldering is the best with a little shrink tube on it. This wouldn't be fun if it weren't such a project I suppose.Also, is the switch for the directional on the running lights before or after the harness behind the headlight? It must be closer to the switch on the handlebar, which means if I connect it to the running lights lead, the passing lamps will blink in time with the directional, right?
    The running lights are always ON. The light bulbs in turn signals have two filaments, so the running lights are on one and turn signal on the other. The running lights do not blink.

  10. hijamooze
    #

    Got it. Thanks.

    Why would the running lights lead be better suited to drive electrical current compared to the low beam lead?

    I still agree with LiddleBen on which lead to use to connect the passing lamps, but am curious about the difference.

  11. LasjDavk
    #

    Got it. Thanks. Why would the running lights lead be better suited to drive electrical current compared to the low beam lead?I still agree with LiddleBen on which lead to use to connect the passing lamps, but am curious about the difference.
    Your lowbeam power cuts off when you are on Highbeam. Most of us like to have our Driving/Passing lights on all the time, regardless of Headlight status.

    I am slowing becoming familiar with Yamaha's wiring practices, however, with the exception of OEM Lightbars, I would typically run a relay and draw power directly from the battery, and use something from the Headlight bucket to power the relay trigger only while running new wires to power the lights from the relay.

    I do this for a couple of reasons, 1st is that most OEM Lightbars usually run 25watt bulbs, maybe 30-35watt bulbs and they have designed their wiring harnesses to handle this OEM aftermarket draw of power. However, several of the aftermarket Lightbars have 50watt or greater bulbs in them, this is a significant increase in power draw, for that kind of power you would typically want to run a minimum of 14 gauge wire, which is typically larger wire than what is available in the OEM harness that you might tap into.

    Just a little comparison

    25watt lights x 2 = 50watts total will draw between 3.5 and 4.2 amps depending on running voltage

    55watt lights x 2 = 110watts total will draw between 7.9 and 9.2 amps depending on running voltage

    That is a significant increase in juice going thru the wires. The last thing we want is a melted wiring harness.

    Hope I haven't confused things, just trying to help

    Jeff

  12. einzdan
    #

    See my post in this thread for some suggestions.

    http://www.ymhmotoboard.com/topic/hooking-up-55w-running-light-bar

    Good Luck.

  13. quicgmicg
    #

    Solder and shrink tubing... do it right the first time.

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