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Oil Change Basics

6 posts from 4 voices
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  1. Moonej
    #

    Okay guys, I know that these questions have all been asked and answered in other threads, but after searching through several and trying to weed the info out of rants and frustrations, I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate one thread to some basic oil change topics. Maybe even make it a sticky???

    Can some of you seasoned do-it-yourself guys provide some answers to these questions? And maybe if somebody was real motivated, they could post a step-by-step tutorial with those pictures I saw somewhere of each elusive plug that has to be drained?

    How often should you really change your oil?

    Is the full synthetic oil worth the extra money?

    I've read that a short 17mm, a motorcycle jack, and torx sockets are a must-have. Are there any other special tools required?

    Is 5 qts enough? How much oil should I buy before starting the job?

    Is the long procedure I read about somewhere really necessary to accurately check the oil level?

    Thanks in advance for the help.

  2. tingjtod
    #

    How often should you really change your oil? Depends on how you ride and where you ride but I like the 3000 mile mark its safe and about what most bikes see a year

    is the full synthetic oil worth the extra money? YES and YES.. Here's why. These bikes have what they dry sump system. Meaning most of the oil is carried in the oil tank and it circulates through the engine and back into the tank through the oil lines and passages. With normal oils you get a lot of oil foaming and sometimes this leads to air pockets and cavitation and that's normally what kills the lifters on these bikes. So a good Synthetic motorcycle oil and filter are worth there weight in gold. The stock yamaha filters are good but at our shop we use and like the K&N oil filters.

    I've read that a short 17mm, a motorcycle jack, and torx sockets are a must-have. Are there any other special tools required? No need for a torx unless you're changing the transfer case and that can go 7000 miles or so after the first change. Get a cheap 17mm wrench and you will have to grind the wrench thing on the backbone of it, but other than that it's easy as pie. I have a special Raider/Liner wrench i made for these bikes

    Is 5 qts enough? How much oil should I buy before starting the job? buy 6 with the filter and a complete drain its 5.15 quarts

    Is the long procedure I read about somewhere really necessary to accurately check the oil level? Yes it is but look here and this will help you http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjG18WGbHMg

    PS change the oil when the bike is hot just after a ride and let it drain for an hour or so. what we do at our shop is we ask the customer to give his bike at least a 20 minute ride before hand and we drain it hot as we can. We use two oil pans and drop the rear plus first (oil tank) then we drop the two front plugs and filter and let it drain. if the bike is hot it will drain and trickle for a while that way you get the most of the gunk out.

  3. yjmmjyajmez
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    I still use the synthetic Rotella T. I just did my change last week with the new Rotella with T6 (even more protective additives) Some of you out there are concerned with automotive oils, just do the research on your own. the Yamalube is crap compared to the Rotella T, and the Yamalube is what the manufacturer recommends. A little common logic here, lol! Ive used Mobile One automotive oils in the past with no problems, and I had those bikes on an average of 8 years. As long as the rating star on the back has a blank lower half (meaning it is missing the term "Energy Conserving") your good to go. Some of you are also concerned with the "5w" start up or cold viscosity rating as being too low, but this rating is fine when it comes to synthetic oils, they behave differently than standard oils do. The Rotella T circulated very quickly when starting a cold engine, and remember, the startups are the hardest things on an engine, next to extreme high RPMs during actual riding. being synthetic, the oil holds up its protection way longer than regular oils do, meaning if you start out with a 20w 40 standard oil, as it heats up it ends up breaking down into actual lower viscosity grades, such as 5w 30. As the miles rack up, you may think you have a crankcase full of 20w 40 oil, but it would be more like 10w 30, which is why 2k changes are the norm for the fossil fuel oils. Synthetics hold their viscosity rating well above this norm, so 4k to 5k changes are acceptable. I paid 20 dollars for 4 qts of the Rotella T6 synthetic, plus another 5 dollars for that 5th quart, their bigger jugs only come with 4 qts. My oil filter choice: SuperTech ST7137 for 3 bucks, these have no cardboard elements inside them such as the Frams do, and are an equivalent quality replacement for the 7 dollar Purolators. Ok, if you do not care about cost, by all means go for the Amsoil, it is the best you can buy, but if exceeding the recommended ratings from the manufacturer is ok with you, then you can protect the Raider's engine just fine on quite a selection of more affordable oils. Peace

  4. yjmmjyajmez
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    "I've read that a short 17mm, a motorcycle jack,...

    I ended up grinding the 17mm wrench down on its sides to fit into that tight spot where the bolt plugs are very close the the frame. Yes, you will need the torx to remove the tranny case drain screw. The jack is not necessary, in fact I fell that it just gets in the way of the drain pan. I prop my kickstand up on my plastic oil filter socket wrench, its around 2 1\\2 " tall and has a flat surface where the kickstand rests well on. I use that to not only drain the oil\\gear oil, but to check the level when I refill.

  5. LozdDok
    #

    Oil Drain Locations on the Raider

    YouTube Video

  6. Moonej
    #

    Thanks, gents - this is perfect.

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