Motorcycle Club » Star 1300

Modifications - A Walkthrough

22 posts from 17 voices
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  1. Ravhite
    #

    This is a horn relocation for the 1300 accomplished by Renfield, this is a good write-up with photos.

    web.mac.com

  2. zumnckuj
    #

    Found this on another forum and its good and valid information.

    QUOTE
    I found the tech tip, it is from the latest yamaha tech tips sent out by yamaha, I do not have a number attached to it , nor do I have a scanner but it says....

    Sympton:

    " on some 2007 XVS1300 models, a rattle noise may be heard when the transmission is in nuetral and clutch lever is released. The noise stops when when the clutch lever is pulled in or the transmission is not in nuetral"

    Cause:

    "The primary driven gear on the back of the clutch basket is dampened to reduce drive/driven gear lash noise . In some cases the dampning may not reduce the gear lash noise susufficiently for a customers' expectations. This gear lash noise sounds like a rattle near the clutch area of the engine. While not a defect, the noise can sometimes be reduced to a customers satisfaction."

    Remedy :

    The primary driven gear dampner was changed on the 2008 models from a rubber cushion type to a spring type to reduce rattle noise . I n addition the 2008 model primary gear has slightly more gear lash to reduce whine noise ."

    The 2007 primary driven gear will be superceded to a kit containing the 2008 parts in the table below "

    the box that came for mine ( which has never rattled ) had a complete clutch assembly except for the two gaskets for the side case and clutch cover ,

    I can fax it to someone if you want BUT it is a tech tip not a service bullentin, so it seems as though they will fix it but not issuing a service bullentin , and any Yamaha dealer should have recieved the update bullentin book and that is where we found it , one page . 6-6

    the part number is 99999-03812-00 Driven Gear Asst Set .

    UNQUOTE

  3. unpitten
    #

    I posted this previously; for those that have not seen it yet here is the actual "tech tip" in .pdf form from the Yamaha distributed Tech Tip Journal. You will need a pdf reader to view.

    bluemoongemworks.com

    (Edit) the pdf can now be found here.

    By the way I did not put this up on the net, just found it doing some surfing.

  4. GK
    #

    Do we know if this is something Yamaha is taking care of , or is this another after thought that we need to take care of? Peace GK

  5. unpitten
    #

    Do we know if this is something Yamaha is taking care of , or is this another after thought that we need to take care of? Peace GK
    You will need the help of your dealer; here is how it was explained to me by my dealer:

    It's a tech tip and not a service bulletin. This means that the 07 clutch basket works fine, it's just a bit noisy. Yamaha will not replace it just because there is a replacement available. On the other hand if I (the dealer) call Yamaha and say the owner of this Star 13 can't take the noise anymore, it's driving him/her crazy, it's an embarrassment.

    This is what my dealer did and the parts are in, the service will be done on August 19th (I told them no hurry) on Yamaha's tab.

  6. popvho
    #

    Very interesting, I bought a 2007 1300 and the clutch does make a noise , very annoying thanks for the info. Bob

  7. morkan
    #

    Hello , I am really interested in purchasing a new 2007 vstar 1300 (red ) but after reading about the clutch noises I am having second thoughts....To what degree is Yamaha admitting there is a problem and covering the cost of the fix ?
    The problem is I live in a small town and the only vstar for sale here is a new 2008 with bags and Sheild but it it is $2300 more than the new 2007 (basic) I am looking at from an out of town dealer......is my local dealer obligated to fix the problem ?? I am all for buying local but that is alot of money
    Any advice ??

    morkan

  8. Kinkfrok
    #

    Cobra Slash downs solve the problem......The Thinder Air intake is louder than the rattle....

  9. Havndet
    #

    So, if you just bought a brand new 1300, you probably did the same thing I did. Got out on the internet, searched for a forum, and started reading about your new bike. If so, you undoubtedly came across the airbox mod, Jack's O2 Mod, and the exhaust mod. Furthermore, if this was your first time modding a bike, you were probably very apprehensive in doing these mods to a brand new 9000-11000 dollar bike depending on how bad the dealer hit you with his sledgehammer. I am going to walk through how I performed the mods, and run down the list of questions I had while performing them to save you some time searching.

    Note: I am new to modding bikes. I am writing this post based on my own experiences. All of these mods I have found searching around the forums. All credit for the mods goes to the originator. I am simply relaying my experience as a newbie modder to other newbie modders to cut down on searching for information, and hopefully cutting down on questions asked.

    Airbox Mod

    Tools Needed:
    Metric Allen Wrench Set
    Drill
    Pilot Bit, and 1/8" Bit
    Computer
    Printer
    Tape
    45 Minutes

    First, the airbox mod. Most people say this one makes the most difference, and it happens to be the one that takes the longest to complete. Do not worry though, by longest I mean it takes 45 minutes, and it requires little "handymanesque" skill to complete. First you want to remove the cover off the airbox. It will be the triangular, plastic, chrome painted piece that houses your V Star 1300 sticker on it. It is on the brake side of the bike. Remove that by unscrewing the 4 screws and set it aside. Go ahead and take the sticker off if you plan to debadge. You will now see a black plastic piece with your airfilter inside. Take out the airfilter and unscrew the black plastic piece from the frame. Pull it towards you just a little and look behind it and you will see a hose and a clamp. Squeese the clamp and move it down the hose then gently pull the hose off the tube. You should now be able to remove the black airbox from the bike. Bring the airbox inside and print off this pattern: img444.imageshack.us. Cut the pattern in half and tape it to the front and back side of the box. Here is the placement you are going for:

    Do that to both sides. I drilled very small pilot holes in the center of the pattern holes first, then went back and drilled the 1/8” holes. Once you have done this to both sides, clean out the airbox, put it back on the bike, CONNECT THE HOSE, put the filter back in, and put the cover back on. This mod is complete.

    Finished Product without the cover on:


    Questions I Had:
    1. Is the tube glued to the box or can I just yank it off?
    You can yank it off after removing the tube clamp.
    2. People do different numbers of holes whats the deal?
    Some people cut the pattern in half and do 72 on both sides, some do more in the front and less in the back to create suction. I did 72 in the back and 83 in the front (added nearly 2 more rows of holes to the front). This is entirely up to you, I would either do the same on both sides or more in the front.
    3. Will this void your warranty?
    Seems like no, but ask your dealer to be sure. Some people have a spare airbox ready to swap it out if needed.

    Exhaust Mod

    Tools Needed:
    Drill
    1 1/2" Hole Saw Bit (Rated to Cut Metal, with Pilot Bit in Middle)
    12" Extender Bit
    5 Minutes

    This one is very simple and only takes about 3-5 minutes to complete. Get your drill, put on your 12 inch extender bit. Attach your 1.5" hole saw bit to the end. Make sure it has a pilot bit in the middle of the hole saw to keep it straight. Stick it into the exhaust and try to center it up a bit, shouldnt be too hard as the hole your sticking it in is not much larger than the bit, and drill away. Keep the drill under control but press firmly. After you drill out the plate, start the bike and the plate should pop right out.

    Questions I Had:
    1. Will this void my warranty?
    On the exhaust itself, yes, on the bike as a whole, I doubt it but ask your dealer.

    Jack's O2 Mod

    Tools Needed:
    Small Screwdriver

    This is a simple one. Pictures are included with the mod so you can look there for a picture. Basically where the two pipes meet into 1, above that there is a triangular medal piece secured by 3 screws. Get an allen wrench to fit them, remove the plate, and behind it you will see two wires connected by a plastic connector. In the side facing you there will be a tab, lift it toward you with a small screwdriver while pulling the connectors apart. After that remove the larger connector from the frame by reaching behind the wires and pulling the flap toward you to release the lock, it will pop off the frame. Then take your O2 Mod, and plug it into the respective connectors. Tuck all the wires in and put the plate back on and enjoy your ride!

    Questions I had:
    1. Where do you tuck the wires?
    Read the directions carefully, as I did this after a long days work and did not read the directions thoroughly. You can disconnect the connector from the frame giving you a lot of options in tucking the wires.

  10. chaser38
    #

    This is a horn relocation for the 1300 accomplished by Renfield, this is a good write-up with photos.http://web.mac.com/gr3/iWeb/Site/Library.html
    The link above doesn't work any more...suggestions?

  11. MigejCojode
    #

    Oops and I haven't seen hide nor hair of Ravhite in here or BGBB. Maybe he can fix it when he pops back.

  12. chaser38
    #

    That was a Renfield mod, right?

  13. Yammj
    #

    I'll patiently wait...........

  14. MorkKW
    #

    I'm not familiar with the mod Renfield posted and where, exactly, he relocated the horn. Here are instructions for relocating it behind the empty chrome-like V-cover on the bike's left side:

    HORN RELOCATION

    This may, or may not, be similar to what Renfield had posted, but it's a great mod. The only change should be to get rid of that useless stock meep-meep moped horn and replace it with a Fiamm Freeway Blaster low tone.

    Make it a great weekend.
    Morg

  15. unpitten
    #

    I'm not familiar with the mod Renfield posted and where, exactly, he relocated the horn. Here are instructions for relocating it behind the empty chrome-like V-cover on the bike's left side: HORN RELOCATION This may, or may not, be similar to what Renfield had posted, but it's a great mod. The only change should be to get rid of that useless stock meep-meep moped horn and replace it with a Fiamm Freeway Blaster low tone. Make it a great weekend.Morg
    That's a bit different than the Renfield mod. The Renfield mode you attach an FIAMM Freeway Blaster horn to the handle like support that has the rubber grommets for reattaching the the dummy cover. Everything else is basically the same.

    You do not need a crossover or a different end plug to attach the Freeway Blaster.

  16. chaser38
    #

    I attached my horn to the allen bolt that holds the fake chrome air cover. Different way of getting to the same solution.

  17. rocgjpaltj
    #

    Havndet, brand new to the site. Question had cobra dragsters put on bike many miles ago. Haven't made any mods. Lot of popping on deceleration. Fixin to by power commander. Should I do the mod before or do I even need to do it at all? Isn't this caused by having to much air and making the mixture lean? Can you help Meeeee?

  18. yeff7
    #

    you have to put on new gaskets at the head or they will leak could cause some problems. they are one use only.

  19. GASdar
    #

    After reading your great description of the airbox drilling modification, I'm ready to do it to my '09 1300, but the pics of the drilled box don't come up when clicking on them. Is it possible for you to repost the pics?

  20. MorkKW
    #

    Hey, GASdar.

    Go HERE and you'll not only find a picture of a drilled air box, but you also will find a link for downloading a template to use for drilling the holes.

    That first picture shows 80 holes drilled, which would be okay if they were 3/16" in size. The template will show 144 holes that are 1/8" each. DO NOT FORGET to add at least half that many to the rearward facing side, which will increase hugely the amount of air being drawn into that air box. I always used this as an example: think of being in a room with 2 front windows open, noticing the amount of air that's being drawn into that room. Then go ahead and open one more window on the back side of the room and take note of the major increase in air flowing now into the room. Similar results are found when drilling holes on both sides of the air box vs. only the front side.

    As a side note, when I was using a modified air box, it was one in which I drilled 170 holes on the forward facing side (all 3/16") and 45 on the rear. And yes, it does make a significant improvement in power with that sweet 1300 engine, which is really choked down as it comes from the factory. To gain even a tad more efficiency, add a drop-in K&N air filter, one that will enhance the air flow to the engine vs the stock Yammj filter.

    Take care.
    Morg

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