I've seen alot of different and unique ways of people changing oil in their Roadliners. I found this on another thread. Makes it REAL easy. All you need is a 17mm wrench and a oil filter remover or screwdriver to puncture the oil filter and spin off. Doesn't get any easier then this.
My only tip:
I couldn't get my oil pan under the bike so I took a plastic 4 litre windshield washer fluid container. Put the lid on it. Laid it on it's side. Cut a hole about 2" x 4" into the side of it. I slide that under the bike.
The oil change is very simple and straight forward and only requires a 17mm wrench, an oil filter tool (or a simple flat screwdriver) and about 5 quart of oil as well as two crush seals for the oil drain bolts (you get them for a couple cents at the local Yamaha shop). For the first change I went with Golden Spectrum 20W50 the regular stuff - non synthetic.
Took the bike for a short but rather fast ride up one of my local mountain roads. Some 20 min to get the oil really warmed up.
Here's how you do it:
Put the bike on it side stand and remove the seat.
Put an oil pan below the rear drainage bolt. The bolt is on the right hand side of the bike almost straight under the oil tank. You need to lay down on the ground to find it at first. It's the only 17mm bolt in that area. (I located it just beside the frame rail directly under the oil tank. Look under the bike.) Loosen it up with the pan removed and once you can start to twist it with you fingers, put the oil pan under it and remove the bolt completely. Wear some gloves as the oil is HOT! (You want it to be hot!)
Now remove the oil cap so the oil will drain faster. After a few minutes it will stop dripping and you are ready to re-install the drain bolt. Before you do, replace the crushed seal with a new one. The seal pops off the bolt when you squeeze a little flat screwdriver between it and the bolt. Re-install the bolt. You can feel the new crush seal being - well crushed - be careful to not over tighten the bolt. You get the new crush washers at your favorite Yamaha dealer. I usually by 10 packs as they are only a few cents a piece.
Now do the same for the front drainage bolt. It is located under the left front engine casing right where the floor board mount to the frame. Again its the only 17mm bolt around there. (Again, right beside the frame rail. Use a little mirror under the bike. You'll see it) Remove it and drain the oil. Once done do the same as for the rear and install it with a new crush seal.
Finally take off the oil filter. If you don't have an oil filter tool you can punch a whole into it with a flat screwdriver, and then use the screw driver to loosen the filter. You will throw it away anyway so it really does not matter if you do it in one piece or all messed up.
Instead of installing a stock Yamaha filter, do yourself a favor and get a K&N 303 oil filter (I used a WIX filter. I found a great oil filter cross reference chart by doing a "OIL FILTER CROSS REFERENCE CHART" on Google) (same as for the RS Warrior). Not only does it come sealed (yeah the stock filters sit open ended in a cardboard box and any dust that gets to it sticks to the inside of the filter - now you are installing a brand new dirty filter ) but also do the K&Ns have a 17mm nut welded on. That makes future changes a breeze - not more screwdriver massacre.
Before installing the filter poor some fresh oil into it (about 3/4 full). And wipe some of that oil onto the O-ring seal. Then install - again don't over tighten!
Now it time to fill in fresh oil. The engine takes the same amount of oil as the RS Warrior. Fill in about 3 1/2 quarts, close the oil cap and start the engine for about 10 sec. Add another 1/2 quart or until you are centered at the dip stick.
Now go for a ride and get that oil all warmed up. When you get back check the oil level again and top off if necessary. Don't overfill the oil as you will cause more and more oil to get spit into the air intakes.
After the oil change I checked the brake and clutch fluids. You have to love that hydraulic clutch - no adjustments whatsoever since day one. On every regular clutch I would have gone through several adjustments already. Checked all major bolts, air pressure in the tires and took a look at the air filter (under the tank) - well lets say its time to whip together a BAK for that beauty and help it breath a little better.
This video will show you the correct way to check the oil level on your bike.
OIL FILTERS THAT CAN BE USED ON A ROADLINER
BTW.. Here is an interesting article on oil & filters.
There are three bolts to remove for draining the oil - in addtion to the oil tank drain, there are TWO sump drain bolts under the front left of the engine. They are there for a reason - make sure to drain all three (and replace all three crush washers).
You can also buy a cheap strap wrench for an oil filter for less than 5 dollars which works perfectly for removing the filter.
Once you've done the oil change once and located where everything is, it's a pretty simple operation.
He's not totally wrong, but I'm positive 4 qts. is not enough oil. You could probably use his method, but I prefer to use the Yamaha method since they built the bike. This is straight from the Roadliner owners manual:
To change the engine oil (with or
without oil filter cartridge replacement)
1. Remove the rider seat. (See page
2. Start the engine, warm it up for
several minutes, and then turn it
3. Place an oil pan under the oil tank
to collect the used oil.
4. Remove the engine oil filler cap
and drain bolt to drain the oil from
the oil tank.
5. Place an oil pan under the engine
to collect the used oil.
6. Remove engine oil drain bolts A
and B to drain the oil from the
Skip steps 7–9 if the oil filter cartridge is
not being replaced.
7. Remove the oil filter cartridge with
an oil filter wrench.
An oil filter wrench is available at a
8. Apply a thin coat of engine oil to
the O-ring of the new oil filter cartridge.
Make sure that the O-ring is properly
9. Install the new oil filter cartridge
with an oil filter wrench, and then
tighten it to the specified torque
with a torque wrench. 1.7 m·kgf, 12 ft·lb
10. Install the engine oil drain bolts,
and then tighten them to the specified
torque. Engine oil drain bolt A (crankcase):
43 Nm (4.3 m·kgf, 31 ft·lbf)
Engine oil drain bolt B (crankcase):
43 Nm (4.3 m·kgf, 31 ft·lbf)
Engine oil drain bolt (oil tank):
43 Nm (4.3 m·kgf, 31 ft·lbf)
11. Pour only 2.5 L (2.6 US qt) (2.2
Imp.qt) of the specified amount of
recommended engine oil through
the filler hole, insert the dipstick,
and then tighten the oil filler cap.
12. Start the engine, rev it several
times, and then turn it off.
13. Remove the engine oil filler cap,
and then gradually fill the oil tank
with the remaining oil quantity
while regularly checking the oil level
on the dipstick. (4.33 qts. without filter change 5.18 qts. with filter change)
In order to prevent clutch slippage
(since the engine oil also
lubricates the clutch), do not
mix any chemical additives. Do
not use oils with a diesel specification
of “CD” or oils of a higher
quality than specified. In
addition, do not use oils labeled
“ENERGY CONSERVING II” or
Make sure that no foreign material
enters the crankcase.
14. Install the engine oil filler cap.
15. Start the engine, and then let it idle
for several minutes while checking
it for oil leakage. If oil is leaking, immediately
turn the engine off and
check for the cause.
16. Turn the engine off, and then
check the oil level and correct it if
17. Install the rider seat.
Great piece of info there. I made it a sticky so it's easy for our members to find it.
Yeah, with a filter it's more like 5 quarts. Beware that factory torque spec of 31 Ft. Lbs. on the aluminum crankcase. There's only 10mm of threads so I'd be inclined to think more like 20 -24. A number of people posted threads about stripping the crankcase. A spark plug is only about 18 ft lbs and it has a lot more threads. Strip the crankcase and spend a bunch of money. Anyway I don't see how you'd ever get a torque wrench in there without a crows foot adapter.
Yeah, those are just the owners manual specs. I just put the filter on hand tight and tighten the plugs enough to crush the washers.
Here is the best oil filter removal for the liners that I have found: Oil filter pliers. They have these teeth that dig and grip the filter easily and makes removal a snap.
Torque specs a joke? I had to use a breaker bar to remove my main drain bolt. Do the dealerships put the oil in the bikes when they get them or do they come prelubed?
Torque specs a joke? I had to use a breaker...
I believe you nailed it!
Specs are way to tight for these bolts
I had a terrible time,breaking them loose, my fist change,
I don't put them back that tight
31 or 32 whatever the correct spec is fine. To me that's maybe 3/4 of a turn past handtight. My main drain bolt was probably more like 80. They are all correct now, although I cheated some on the bolts under the engine. I'm going to look at harbor freight for a lift soon.
To me that's maybe 3/4 of a turn past handtight.
Yeppers,that's about the same for me.
I'm going to look at harbor freight for a lift soon.
I've had one similar (Sears) since 06, best money spent!!
I have the same jack from sears. It's gotten a little rusty since I live near the beach, but it works good. Definitely paid for itself over the last few years.
Just did the engine and transfer oil today, the jack didn't do anything other than sit the bike vertical to check level of fluids. In the way of drain bolts and stuff with the bike on it.
Going to do my own oil changes starting this year. Had an extended service agreement through the dealer where I bought my bike, so they've been covered till now. Thanks all for the posts & links in regards to the oil change. Think I may spring for a service manual this year as well. I need all the help I can get, as I'm way more comfortable with a saw in my hand than a wrench
Yeah, the service manual is very helpful. Find one on ebay... That's what I did.
Here is the Service Manual for free from linerwiki.
I posted this in another thread and thought this would also be good here so hope you don't mind the repeat. For those looking for a lift/stand to assist with oil changes, check this out. Just used my $20 lift for an oil change and all I can say is Wow! My cheap lift did a great job in keeping the bike level and more important, giving me more room height wise for easier wrenching. I did find out though that after most of the oil comes out of the two drain plugs up front, taking it off the lift and putting it on the side stand will drain a couple of ounces of oil more.
This will also help with the transfer case oil change.
Here is the visual:
Found this stubby wrench set from Lowe's that has the 17mm closed-end that perfectly fits the 2 front drain bolts. Being a stubby would hopefully prevent over torquing the bolts.
The torque spec was reduced to 24 ft. lbs. There's a bulletin on it due to stripped crankcase threads.