Motorcycle Club » Vstar 950

Electrical Tune-Up, and fuse box

2 posts from 2 voices
About This Topic
  1. RSdar
    #

    Hi Folks. As I had said in my other thread "Rust to deal with ...", I usually do this when I buy the bike, not after I ride it for awhile.

    I'm a believer in the use of dielectric grease on all things electrical. Been using it for years on the cars, and motorcycles. Dielectric grease seals electrical contacts from moisture and prevents oxidation. It really helps in the long run, especially when things get older. I take apart all the electrical connectors, pack the female plug with grease, and put back together. I use in on all the fuses, and any mating electrical plug. Yah, it's messy, too. I buy a large tube of dielectric grease... it's cheaper that way

    So, as I was taking things apart on the bike, I did the electrical connectors. This is something that's usually only done once. If you have to redo a connection, then I reapply the dielectric grease.

    The horn connectors were showing signs of corrosion, so that had to be cleaned and then packed with grease. The connectors on the 950 are hard to reach in some instances. They are also hard to separate. I had to use a small blade screwdriver to push in the tabs on some of them to get them to release. Again, lots of patience required, and a lift does help. I worked methodically from back to front, starting at the rear light connectors behind the chrome cover above the license plate. The connections to the computer are also good to do.

    You learn a lot about your machine by doing these things, that's for sure. For instance, the headlight bucket seems to be a major terminus of all things electrical. The fuse box is basically inaccessible.

    To actually get access to the fuse box, it's easier to remove the seat latch cross brace. It opens from the left side, and pivots to the right. Yeah, good luck dealing with this in the dark. There is a fuse map on the inside of the lid, but you can't read it. All fuses (including the spares) were also done.

    The spare fuses are shown horizontally here. Good luck accessing the 20 amp spare (the over-exposed yellow one) that's in the top/left corner. It's totally encased. You have to wiggle it out using a small blade screwdriver or knife. Needle nose pliers help once it's up far enough.

    There is another set of fuses with the starter relay which lives behind the right side cover, adjacent to the battery. It is also hard to access. Sorry, no pic.

    I also did the brake and clutch lever switches, and if you have passing lamps, don't forget to the ground wire that's under the light bar. Don't be afraid to do the contacts for your lightbulbs, either, including the bulb bases.

    Under the bicycle helmet lives the coil packs. There's lots to do in there as well. There is a sensor (oil?) just behind the coil packs on the front cylinder that can also be done.

    The next set of connectors to do are under the fuel tank. Since the fuel has to be drained to remove the tank, and I have a full tank in there right now, that'll have to wait until later on. Don't forget to do the sparkplug wires/boots when you're there.

    I always disconnect the battery when doing this type of work, and then I put dielectric grease on the battery terminals when reconnecting it.

    Oh yeah, my wife's Triumph had dielectric grease applied on about 80% of the connectors from the factory. I did the rest.

    HTH,
    H.

  2. nikhdwater
    #

    Excellent idea you've passed on.

    Thanks,
    Keith.

Reply

You must log in to post.