Motorcycle Club » Star 1100 Classic & Custom

DIY - valve adjustments

24 posts from 9 voices
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  1. viltorekon
    #

    Thought I'd share my passion for DIY service work on my VStar 1100 Classic. Today's lesson... valve adjustments...

    After performing my own Maxair install ( "... follow the instructions ..." max ) and experiencing spectacular results, I was ready to tackle the 8K service stop - oil and filter change, plug replacement, and valve adjustment.

    After discovering and downloading the Yamaha 1100 Service Manual, I found it extremely helpful in walking me through all the steps for the work. The pics might not provide everything you expect, but the details on valve adjustments provide a good start.

    So I hunted for and found a better detailed valve adjustment instruction guide with pics that rock!!!

    vstar1100.com/vs1100valves.pdf

    So... I'm off to the garage to do the final adjustments.

    Question: If the valve clearance range is from .07mm to .12mm, is it better to adjust for the middle?

    BTW... after doing my first oil filter replacement, I can't say I would find the value in paying for an ORK. Yes, it was a bugger to pull the exhaust, but I now have clean chrome lower covers. Quite honestly, I'm happy to keep the savings and buy more performance or chrome accessories.

  2. poppj
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    viltorekon......when i did my 8k valve adj.....intake was at 0.10mm and exhaust was at 0.14.....i left them that way.....my bike was running great with very little engine noise.....i changed my plugs....but my old ones looked good....they could have went to 12,000....did you have to adjust your valves....did you change plugs....bob

  3. retzdaret
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    Yes you should adjust in the middle.

  4. viltorekon
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    Wow... the rewards of work done well show up when you first hit the starter!

    Thanks poppj... the intakes are now set at .10 and the exhaust at .15, somewhere in the middle. It's not that I aimed for these two, it's what I had on the feeler gauge ~

    The back cyclinder was pretty much dialed in, although I adjusted the two for practice and exact tolerance. It was pretty easy actually. I really had to adjust the front valves as they were way out. Now, there's no more valve tink. I do hear the chain... which I am assuming is normal.

    Changed the plugs too - NGK's. Motor fired right up and purrs through all the gears. Far less tinking sound on deceleration as well.

    If you're a gearhead or just fearless ... you gotta "do it yourself" at least once. It'll change you.

  5. TheTinMan
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    Hi Guys

    First time on this forum and I ran across this DIY. My dad has a 08 Vstar custom 1100 and he is always complaining about how rough the engine is. He just had it back to the dealer for a 1600KM inspection and they adjusted the valves as well. The bike is rougher now then before. The dealer says its normal but I think different.
    When I read the DIY instructions this stood out "The fixed indicator slot is at the 11:00 position, not the 1:00 position as illustrated in the manual."

    Is it possible the dealer has it on the 1:00 position? And if so what does this do to the bike?

  6. poppj
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    bring it back to the dealer.....something is not right......my 1100 runs very smooth.....b

  7. TheTinMan
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    The dealer is saying its normal.

  8. quicgmicg
    #

    Can you define "rough"? A V-Twin engine is not known for being very smooth to start with. Is it at idle? At cruising speed? What all did you pay the dealership do besides the valve adjust?

    Most common of what I've seen (and I'm no expert) of "rough" idling and running V Stars centers around synching the carbs.

    Here is a link to back up a little of what I am saying...

    sloneservices.com/SilverBack/VStar1100-FAQ-05.htm#Synch%20Carbs

    Hope it helps

  9. TheTinMan
    #

    Can you define "rough"? A V-Twin engine is not known for being very smooth to start with. Is it at idle? At cruising speed? What all did you pay the dealership do besides the valve adjust? Most common of what I've seen (and I'm no expert) of "rough" idling and running V Stars centers around synching the carbs. Here is a link to back up a little of what I am saying...www.sloneservices.com/SilverB...#Synch%20CarbsHope it helps
    The bike is smooth starting but rough on throttle response thru the entire RPM range.

    I have a 08 Buell XB12Ss so I am no stranger to a V-twin engine. But my Buell is smooth compared to this thing. The handle bars on the bike are smooth but the vibration comes from under the tank and seat. You feel it right up ur spine.If I had to compare it to anything I would say its like riding on a ride on lawn mower.

  10. TheTinMan
    #

    Can you define "rough"? A V-Twin engine is not known for being very smooth to start with. Is it at idle? At cruising speed? What all did you pay the dealership do besides the valve adjust? Most common of what I've seen (and I'm no expert) of "rough" idling and running V Stars centers around synching the carbs. Here is a link to back up a little of what I am saying...www.sloneservices.com/SilverB...#Synch%20CarbsHope it helps
    He paid for 4 hours of service which included the oil change and valve adjustment. It came to just over $300 bucks Canadian

  11. quicgmicg
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    Again....I'm no expert...but I'd start with a carb synch. The instructions are in the link above and it's not really all that hard. Just get it close and I think you might be surprised. When mine starts acting that way, the synch has saved the day for me.

    Did they do a carb synch while it was there?

    Good luck with that..... BTW..I had a chance to ride a Buell a coupld weeks ago....it was a blast!

  12. kolf173
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    I am experiencing the same thing. I have a 2008 custom as well. I just had my service done at 1000 miles and I am experiencing the same thing with the roughness. It was running pretty good up until about yesterday. It is pretty rough feeling...don't have any difference in engine noise...just feels like its puttering along and doesn't have a lot of power behind her. At about 60MPH the engine does vibrate the hell out of your behind...I wouldn't say bad but it is def noticable I really noticed it tonight. It also is feeling like its out of motor at 60MPH???? ? ?? ? ? ? ?

  13. poppj
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    get it back to the dealer....talk to the service manager....have them ride it....the 1100 v star is a great motor....at 60 mph you should hit the gas and be doing 80 in a few seconds....something is wrong.....mine runs very smooth for a v twin.....not rough at all....good luck.....b

  14. retzdaret
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    Run some Seafoam threw it. You might just have got some bad gas.

  15. TheTinMan
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    Run some Seafoam threw it. You might just have got some bad gas.
    Both my bike and my Dad's were filled the same time so bad gas is out.

    Took the bike back to the dealer and I went with my Dad this time and talked to the service manager today and they told me the 1100 engine has been like it for years. I thought to myself that this was strange why a bike would be in this bad and Yamaha has stood by this engine so long. Doesn't make sense to me. We live in a small area of about 25,000 people and one dealer. I asked what they done to the bike on the first service and they said they checked valve clearance and never did any adjustment. They also said carb sync was out of the question because if the carbs were out performance would suffer at idle as well as at highway speed. I then asked about timing and they said it was set from the factory and there was no need to check it. Everything i described was normal for this bike. I will let u guys know what they come back with.

  16. Mige
    #

    Not sure how mechanically inclined you are but you may want to try checking the valve adjustment yourself. From what you're describing I'd say it's your carbs out of sync. That is a bit easier to check so I'd start there. You can follow the link posted earlier and see how to do it. As far as the dealer situation is concerned, it's hit and miss. Sounds like the service manager is just defending employee regardless of whether the work was done right or not. I guess at worst case, you may need to find the next closest authorized dealer and see if they can diagnose your problem.

  17. gink1653
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    I just want to say that there has to be something wrong. My bike is at it's smoothest at around 60-65. So for you to say that you feel it runing rough there and for them to say that it is normal does not sound right. I don't use the Yammy dealership. I found a trustworthy motorcycle mechanic who services my bike for less and is very knowledgeable about the 1100. Good luck. Please let us know what it turns out to be.

  18. TheTinMan
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    Got the bike back yesterday and for the third time and as suspected they found nothing wrong with it. They did state on there work order that they could find the vibration when driving at higher rpm's but noted that it was perfectly normal. Next thing is off to the next dealer who is an hour away.

    I am mechanically inclined but my Dad feels that it should not be something for us to do and it should be a dealer thing. I kinda agree with him. You pay for a new bike the thing should at least work right or if not the dealer should be obliged to at least try to fix it.

    I got off the phone yesterday with Yamaha Canada and they are going to send a regional rep in to drive the bike so there is some light at the end of the tunnel so to speak.

  19. Mige
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    Sounds like you are on the right track. Let us know how it turns out.

  20. viltorekon
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    Tin Man,
    I agree with a few others here regarding carb sync. After the bike is warm, put your fingers behind the exhaust to feel exhaust flow. There should be very little difference between the #1 and #2. If anything, #1 (front cylinder) could have a little more blowback than #2.

    Also, remove the left side cover plate and check the AIS hose for tightness. Any additional air introduced to the system will cause the motor to run rough.

    While I understand your dad's insistence that the dealership should be trusted, I'll remind you of those sage words spoken with true sincerity ...

    "I'm from the government, and I'm here to help."

    Better yet... Reagan "Trust, but verify."

    Perhaps the process to drain the oil, remove the air intake cover, remove the left side chrome protection plate, remove both seats, detach the fuel lines, pull the tank, remove the air box, 5mm hex head to remove the 4 valve covers, coins to remove the side view ports to observe the TDC indicators is too much to do... but time well spent in the care and maintenance of your good equipment will be rewarded through years of adrenaline inducing rides.

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