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Bike won't start!!!!!......HELP!!!!!!

12 posts from 4 voices
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  1. ace3750
    #

    I went and got the bike out to go for a ride today to enjoy this beautiful weather, and the bike would'nt start, it just cranked and cranked, so i checked for spark by removing the spark plugs and inserting them into the spark plug boots, and holding the base of the plug against the engine, no spark on either plug, so i checked the 10 amp ignition fuse and the 30 amp main fuse as well as al other damn fuses, all were ok, so i tore the bike down and checked the ignition coils according to the clymer manual, both the primary and secondary coil circuts checked ok for both coils, then i checked the pickup coil which is spec'd in the book to have between 182-222 ohms at 68 degrees (f). It had around 230 ohms but i don't think it was at 68 degrees. so i went on to check the relay unit. i removed it and checked it according to the manual which states:

    "connect the positive lead to the blue/yellow terminal (B Figrure 16)on the unit and connect the negative lead to the sky blue terminal (A Figure 16) the meter should show no continuity (infinite resistance).
    I did so and got 347.4 kilaohms. then the book says to switch the leads and i should get continuity (zero or low resistance). when i switch them i get no continuity.
    So my question is...Is it possible for the ignition system diode, which i was checking, in the relay unit to have reversed it "polarity" and would this cause the no spark condition I have? The part cost $63.00 from the dealer but I don't want to spend the money if this is not going to fix it, or is there something else that could be bad?!?!

  2. MigejCojode
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    First off I've never seen on of these relays go, nor have I tested one, so I am just going on what you are telling me.

    1. That isn't 0 to low resistance even with the polarity reversed.
    2. If you did the test properly change the relay. If a diode blows you should have infinite against path of travel and next to nothing the other way, significant resistance (in the kohm range is significant) in that diode will affect spark and timing.

    Things that will give you reversed polarity. Either you were using the wrong multimeter leads, you had the sky blue blue/yellow wires crossed, or something is screwy on the inside. Usually a bad diode will give you open both ways (infinite resistance) or, in rare cases a short (0 resistance) both ways. I think for you 350K can be considered infinite.

    I'd change it out. No promisses tho, electrical can often be a case of chase the short, replacing part after part.

  3. ace3750
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    Yeah mikey i was afraid of that, it just seemed weird to me that it tested backwards fropm what the book said, my other thought was that the book was printed wrong, but i dout that, the other thing was that the pick coil ohm'd out a little higher than spec. now i just have to find what would affect both ignition circuts. neither plug had spark, the last time i started it it seemed to me that it took a lot more cranking before it fired. idunno i'll replace the relay unit and see what that does if anything and go from there, i just hope that it isn't the igniter unit!!

  4. MigejCojode
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    Yeah mikey i was afraid of that, it just seemed weird to me that it tested backwards fropm what the book said, my other thought was that the book was printed wrong, but i dout that, the other thing was that the pick coil ohm'd out a little higher than spec. now i just have to find what would affect both ignition circuts. neither plug had spark, the last time i started it it seemed to me that it took a lot more cranking before it fired. idunno i'll replace the relay unit and see what that does if anything and go from there, i just hope that it isn't the igniter unit!!
    You know I keep a working set of old used spark plugs in my tool box. I've had new plugs work fine initially and then go on me over the matter of a few days and a hundred miles. For some strange reason they usually go on me in pairs. So before I change anything ignition related I look for spark with the older ones first. If I were you I'd try that if they are available.

    As to the pickup coil. I don't think yours is bad yet, it's a little off but should still give you some sort of spark. But even tho it's pricey, I'd pick up a new one and not install it until I'd replaced and tried the relay. If every thing works at least you have the pickup coil for when it goes. But that's just the way I think, it can take up to 6 weeks to get parts here so that has a little to do with it.

  5. ace3750
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    I ordered the relay, when it comes in i'll install it and see what happens, then we'll go from there, if anyone can think of anything else let me know. Damn this crap is frustrating, especially going into the beginning of the riding season, of course it couldn't have done this in the off season when i would start it every few weeks, it just had to wait to do anything untill now.......oh well, i'll get her fixed and ride on

  6. ace3750
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    installed the new relay today, still no start, also replaced the spark plugs, no spark on either cylinder, back to square 1........

  7. ace3750
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    I did some more checking on the pick up coil, and its giving me some weird ohm readings, when i check it, it checks with low resistance then goes up to around 500+ kilaohms then gives a reading of (0L.) (open/infineit). so I am determining it to be bad?
    also I tried to locate it in the local dealers parts fishe...and I can find it, i found it in a picture with the generator, but it does not have a # or a listing in the parts list. it shows the stator with the wiring running over to the pickup coilas though they are one unit....I would assume they are seperate...if so does anyone know how much it costs roughly?

  8. micg10
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    i don't know if its any help to you but i have a mate who owns a kawazaki zzr 250 that wouldn't start and he tried everything he could think of and it turned out being a faulty "crank sensor". i don't know much about the mechanics of bikes but i hope this helps.
    cheers mick

  9. MigejCojode
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    Sounds like some loose wiring or a cold solder connection inside the pickup coil somewhere. Unfortunately swapping parts until it works again is often the only way to fix an electrical problem. Change that pickup coil if you are positive you did nothing like touch the bare leads with your fingers etc.

    bikebandit.com

    #4 in that pic, $94. That's for a 2001 (couldn't remember your year) the rest will be similar.

    Talk to some of the parts pushers here I'm sure they can get you a better deal. The Yamaha part number is 4TR-81670-00-00. that only works on 2003 and older but I've heard most guys are just splicing them into the post 03 models, I've never done it tho so I can't be of much help. Drop a line to the folks at www.650CCND.com to be sure it will work and find out if the wires match up color for color.

    (found it at babbits for $75 babbittsonline.com)

  10. ace3750
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    finally got the new pickup coil and stator assy. and got them installed, only broke 1 bolt but drilled it out (not very pretty, but it worked) and installed new bolts (with plenty of locktite) put it all back togeather and she fired right up.... havn't taken her for a ride yet still have to put the seats on and bolt the tank on....will ride her tomorrow!!!!

  11. micg10
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    Sweet! enjoy

  12. retzdaret
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    Great news, good job!

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