Motorcycle Club » Star 1100 Classic & Custom

AIS bypass

10 posts from 5 voices
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  1. hengemm
    #

    hey everyone. been a bit since i was last on. got lots of good help with my last post and thought i would use the knowledge from here again. installed the Baron AIS bypass kit for my 05 vstar 1100 and when i went to drive in the plug in the front cylinder, the "self centering" plug didn't exactly self center and started to break the sidewall of the hole the plug was going into. i now have two cracks where it looks like the sidewall could possibly break away eventually. wondered if anyone had an idea of what i can do to keep the cracks from running any farther. i was gonna use some J B WELD on it and put the putty into the small cracks after running it to get the motor hot so when the J B sets up it will set up with the crack expanded. although i am not sure how much expansion there is gonna be there. the biggest gap in the cracks is less than 1/8 in. do i need to worry about the cracks running from expasion and contraction? and does anyone have a better idea? again, thanks in advance, Matt

  2. tucgj
    #

    have worked on aircraft and to stop cracks from going farther, standard practice is to drill at the end of the crack...if enough metal to drill without going into the cyl...

  3. hengemm
    #

    do i need to drill all the way through the metal, or can i just drill into it a little bit for it to stop the crack?

  4. G1Jim
    #

    It has to be all the way through, ideally with a nice clean hole.

    I recently totally removed my AIS system after noticing rust coming from my system that was closed off with the back-looped hoses method. I plugged my ports with bolts screwed in & covered with a high-temp epoxy. Here's what it looks like: pbase.com/G1Jim/image/114439573.jpg

    Jim

  5. yohntoe1
    #

    when i had my 05 vstar 1100 i did the same thing as the above post .
    i used a screw coated with high temp gasket maker,screwed that in (keep the material near the end of the screw,so as none will enter the combustion chamber )waited 24 hours ,then capped it too.
    never had a problem.

    i would never hammer/tap anything into the head.but thats just me .for obvious reasons .

    let me ask you this ...did you freeze them overnight befor tapping them in ??
    this is reccomended to shrink the metal enough to allow easier installation.

    i have never done this but i have read the procedure.

    the drilling reccomendation sounds like a good way to stop a crack for sure.you must however be able to drill right thru the crack near its end or befor the end of the crack .

    this might not be able to be done in that area?

    if worse comes to worse you can just replace that jug and call it a life lesson.

    good luck..let us know how it comes along.

  6. hengemm
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    i didn't freeze them overnight. i did put them in the freezer before i started taking the bike apart. so probably 1 hour before i installed them.

  7. hengemm
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    yeah, the instructions from Baron had me take the 90 degree tubes totally out by placing a big screwdriver in the bend and driving them out with a hammer. i figured the "pros" new what they were talking about. i did save the 90's, but don't know if i can get them to go back in.

  8. hengemm
    #

    on your picture, the bigger of the two cracks is right there as you are looking at the picture. the other crack is right at the bottom of the hole, just slightly around the bottom.

  9. LiddleBen
    #

    If you knew of a talented welder in your area he might Mend the craks. I froze my plugs for a week before installation and only drove them in slightly over half way. I used the PCS plugs Next time I will go with the Nightsky plugs. Much easier to install. Goodluck.,L.B.

  10. hengemm
    #

    i di talk to a welder and he said he didn't feel comfortable trying to weld this because he thought it could possibly run down into the cylinder and onto the piston. i am gonna try this product call Lab-Metal. it is a liquid type putty that withstands high heat and can be sanded, painted, etc. no mixing required. i did look into some brazing rods that melt at half the temp. of aluminum and is supposed to be stronger than the original material. not sure if i wanna put too much heat on the motor though. thats why i thought i would try this Lab-Metal stuff.

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