Hi there, first post. Glad I found the site.
Anyway, after my starter clutch finally failed, I thought I'd change my OEM stator to an aftermarket high output stator since I was in the engine anyway.
I was having trouble with the charging system (only 12-12.5vdc at 5K rpm) so it was a good time to upgrade.
So here's my prob: The new stator is in and tested to be functional per my shop manual. However, my headlights and dash lights dim at idle and get brighter. I'm gettign 13.5vdc at the battery at 5K rpm. I did NOT replace the OEM Regulator.
Any experts on the subject out there?
Hi there, first post. Glad I found the site.Anyway, after my starter clutch finally failed, I thought I'd change my OEM stator to an aftermarket high output stator since I was in the engine anyway.I was having trouble with the charging system (only 12-12.5vdc at 5K rpm) so it was a good time to upgrade.So here's my prob: The new stator is in and tested to be functional per my shop manual. However, my headlights and dash lights dim at idle and get brighter. I'm gettign 13.5vdc at the battery at 5K rpm. I did NOT replace the OEM Regulator.Any experts on the subject out there?
I'm not 100% sure on this but it has always been my understanding that you have to change out the stator and rectifier to high output, you can't change just the one. Hopefully someone will chime in here that can say for certain.
Thanks. The more I read, the more I agree that the Regulator/Rectifier is at fault here. I d/l'd a test flow chart from ElectroSport this morning and I suspect it'll prove that to be the prob.
Still welcome anyone else's input on the subject however. Thanks...
I have the same question... If I change the stator to a high output... do I need to change the reg/rectifier to a high output also? I recently changed my battery & reg/rect. , but I'm still having problems with charging system. I'm suspecting the system can't keep up with the extra accessories.
i am having some sort of problems fori cant keep my battery charged to whereit starts bike, i mean forreal i can charge battery to full charge and maybe get two starts out of it. i guess i will have to by stator and rectifier to high output and see what happens.
Ravhite is right on the mark. If you go to that high output Stator you have to get their rectifier to manage that load being generated by it.
I just swaped mine out ( went OEM ) Incase your looking for a good price.
Look up Yamahasportscenter.com ( Texas ) I buy all my stuff from them. Best priced I've found.
Paul
do ya'll have the stock gel pack battery or an afteramarket dry cell? i have dry cell battery from napa in which it didnt even last 6 months! do ya'll keep your battery pluged into a charger constantly or just during non-riding months? also if battery doesnt hold charge is it possibly due to a stator? you know more or less what compents compose the charging system
You do not need a trickle charge battery tender if your bike has a correctly functioning stator/rectifier and a good battery that can hold a load. If you plug in a battery tender immiediately after a good long ride where your RPM's were above 3500 for a good period of time. Your battery tender will tell you that no-charge is required ( led light will stay green ). If the light goes to yellow and your battery is asking for it to be topped off ( charged ) then there is a problem. It could be a short. It could be your negative ground wire going to your lower frame that is dirty and not conducting good. It could be your stator not charging. In other words. It can be many things. You need to eliminate components. As for battery tenders and winter storage. People have differeent views on it.
I always use to leave it on for the whole winter. Till someone told me not to. This was incase the unit malfunctions ( and you wouldn't even know it ).
So I went with the proceedure of every 2 -3 weeks I would plug it in. Wait till the green light came on and then unplug it. When it came to start it for the first time with a load on it on the bike. It had the power. I also recommend not getting the OEM battery ( YT14-B4 )but rather the ( YTX14-BS ) It has 200 cold cranking amps compared to 135 ( OEM )
Paul
You must log in to post.